L2O2

Lynn has the keyboard just now! This hiking trip was not about the scenery! We both thought it would be, but the weather decided otherwise. The six day walk through amazing country was a journey of finding strength to put one foot in front of the other, avoiding mud puddles, being cautious of tree roots, using rocks as stepping stones and being grateful of boardwalks no matter how short or long. It rained most of the first four days, and the wind blew hard almost all of the first day and intermittently the rest of the time. Water flowed between the button grass clumps, down the path, over the old duck board walks and it was hard to imagine any place in the world lacking water as we had it seep into everything we wore. But no matter how grumpy we were with the weather, we enjoyed this trip immensely. Even if we couldn’t see the mountain tops, there were beautiful views everywhere. The vegetation is different than we know at home and is like a jungle in many spots with ferns and mosses everywhere. Lawrie saw a wombat and we both saw pademelons, wallabies, a possum and a rat. Alas, no devils, tiger snakes or platypuses!

The journey was also about connecting with other hikers. And a wonderful community of people they were too. From the father and son team, the four physios of fruitcake fame, the Darwin couple, the overly energetic young men, the uncle and his two nephews, and not least, our card playing, happy hiking team. These fellow hikers were friendly, interesting, interested, helpful, and fun to be with. If we had been all alone it wouldn’t have been near so wonderful. Thanks to all of you!

Lawrie now has the keyboard. Sometimes you just need to hear each of our versions of an adventure. So here is mine.

The Overland Track leads you from Cradle Mountain overland to Lake St. Clair. You could hike it the other way around, however, at this time of the year it can only be hiked as outlined. It is a hut to hut hike with the option of tenting if desired or room in the hut dictates. It is approximately seventy something kilometres in length.

We manage to make the first drop off shuttle time of eight in the morning and are on our way by about twenty after. It is, which will be the main feature of our trip, raining and blowing, however, there is boardwalk most of the way and the bush keeps most of the wind at bay. This first leg of the trail has the most elevation gain and in no time at all we have climbed into the sub-alpine and into the open and exposed ridges that allow you the impressive views of Cradle Mountain, Crater Lake and so on. We do not get any of those impressive views as we are in the clouds and can only see several hundred feet around us. It is also raining and blowing quite hard. Several gusts almost knock us off the track, sometimes a few extra pounds around the tummy and on your back comes in handy. Halfway point is at Kitchen Hut and we arrive fairly wet and wondering if we have bitten off a little more than we can chew. I am mildly hypothermic and we know we need sustenance. Things are complicated by the wind, rain and clouds. Oh, and I forgot, snow. There are patches of snow, that really heavy stuff that makes great snowballs, that has been blown into drifts about thigh high. I find some drier, warmer clothes and we both have little to eat. Hiking becomes ever so more difficult as these snowdrifts show up with more and more regularity. There is water running underneath them and from time to time you break through up to your calf or thigh. Despite all, our spirits are high and we do arrive at the first hut called Waterfall Valley Hut (and yes there are waterfalls all around us) by three o’clock. First days total K’s are around ten.

It is on again off again rain showers when we leave the next morning on the next leg for Windemere Hut. Distance today is the shortest, at about eight kilometres. The hike is mostly sub-alpine with walks over open moor land, a few ridges and some shallow valleys. The ever present wind and rain are our travelling companions, but the hike is quite pleasant and we arrive at Windemere by noon. We discover however, that we have left our small stove back at the Waterfall Valley Hut and since we need it to cook our meals (fires are not allowed), one of us must make the return journey to retrieve it. It takes me three hours and forty-five minutes to make the round trip but I have really made a major mistake. In my zeal, I have severely blistered my feet. They will be a constant concern for the remainder of the trip.

Hey guess what, it is cloudy but not raining when we leave on the longest leg of our journey. The section from Windemere to Pelion Hut is approximately seventeen kilometres and will take us about seven hours to complete. My feet are sore but not too bad as Lynn has done an amazing job taping them up with moleskin and surgical tape. It is during this section of the trip that we are introduced to the great sport of “root-walking”. Without too much further fan fare … they are a pain to walk over. It is a very long day! There is a major, not steep, but steady hill climb right after crossing over Frog Flats, before arriving at Pelion Hut that saps both your energy and tests your determination. We are both up to the challenge but arrive at Pelion very, very tired. There are good people here though and it is not long before we have our supper and are playing cards with a group of four people that we have struck up a friendship with. Oh yes, there are leeches at Frog Flats, little ones that live in the small pools, the grass and the bushes. I find two on my gaiters and one on Lynn’s boot. Further inspections are negative. Phew!

Day four is nine kilometres to Kira Ora Hut. It is not raining when we leave and looks like the weather might break. Ha! Ha! Within the hour it has socked back in and we are back into our rain gear. Most of this walk is in the rainforest and is a nice break from the arduous day before. You do have to walk over the Pelion Gap which is again not steep but a steady climb into the sub-alpine. The weather breaks a little, giving us a brief view of Mt. Ossa, the highest point in Tasmania, before clouding over once again. Kira Ora is a small hut and our new found friends recommend that we secure a tent platform and camp outside. Good advice, however the temperature has dropped and the wind and rain have risen alarmingly and so we opt for the hut. It storms most of the night and almost all of the tenters move into the hut.

There are some good side trips to some pretty impressive waterfalls on the next leg of this “walk”, and Lynn joins our new found friends in finding them. My feet are not up to the extra challenge and I make my way to Windy Ridge Hut mostly on my own. It has turned into a very pleasant day with no wind and almost constant sunshine. What a relief after four straight days of wind and rain. We camp outside that night under a beautiful sky of stars and a full moon.

From Windy Ridge to Narcissus Hut there are no hills and it is a steady descent. It is our best day yet, warm and sunny and at only nine kilometres we manage to arrive by twelve thirty even on my sore but improving feet. Our friends have booked us on the two forty-five ferry so we sit down in the glorious sunshine and have a very leisurely lunch while waiting for the ferry ride to Lake St. Clair visitor centre.

As Lynn talks about, it has been a very challenging trip but even without the “views” has many unforgettable moments and memories. We met some wonderful people and have made some new friends. This trip truly defines the hiking experience. It is worth the effort. If you ever visit Tasmania do take up the Overland Track challenge, you will not regret it.

On a closing note, it is storming again by nightfall … hunker down you souls on the Overland Track, your adventure is just beginning!